UPDATE: Gold prices have surged to record highs, reaching nearly $4,400 per ounce on October 20, 2023, putting immense pressure on jewelers worldwide. This dramatic increase, exceeding 50% in just one year, has left both retailers and consumers grappling with soaring costs and cautious spending habits.

As the precious metal’s value skyrockets, boutique and major jewelry brands alike are scrambling to adjust their designs and pricing. Isaac Yuan and Joanne Sim, cofounders of Eli J Fine Jewelry in Singapore, are at the forefront of this crisis. Yuan describes the current surge as the most significant he has witnessed in his two decades in the industry, stating, “The move from $3,000 to $4,000 per ounce was really quite crazy.”

Gold’s recent price surge stems from an influx of investor demand for safe-haven assets amidst rising global geopolitical tensions. As central banks increase their gold reserves, traditional jewelry demand is faltering, forcing jewelers to reconsider their strategies. For Eli J, the couple has raised prices by “a few hundred dollars” per piece, resulting in profit margins potentially tightening by up to 10% this year.

Notably, they report a shift in consumer behavior, with 20% to 30% of customers opting for cheaper 14-karat gold instead of the more traditional 18-karat pieces. Customers are increasingly price-sensitive, and the trend is echoed in Singapore’s traditional gold shops. At Kim Poh Hong Goldsmith, owner Susan Tan reports a staggering 30% to 40% drop in demand for 22-karat gold jewelry over the past two months, stating, “Prices are too high; nobody is really buying.”

Despite the challenges, some jewelers are adapting by introducing lower-cost alternatives. Titan, a major jewelry retailer in India, has seen a 19% increase in revenue year-over-year, attributed to higher average ticket sizes as gold prices increase. They have also introduced 9-karat gold options aimed at budget-conscious consumers.

The World Gold Council reports a significant decline in jewelry purchases in India and China, the world’s top gold markets, with drops of 31% and 18% respectively in the third quarter of 2023. This slump is primarily due to affordability issues driven by record gold prices, which are limiting consumer purchases even during traditionally busy seasons.

“The record gold price environment was the primary reason for the decline, simply due to affordability,” the World Gold Council stated in a recent report.

Even industry giants like Denmark’s Pandora are feeling the heat. The company noted that rising gold prices impacted their margins significantly, leading them to consider alternative materials to offset costs. CEO Alexander Lacik mentioned during an earnings call, “I can knock out stainless-steel jewelry if I want to, but what does that do to people’s perception of the brand?”

As jewelers brace for the upcoming holiday season, many hope for a stabilization in gold prices to boost demand. Yuan believes that year-end bonuses will drive a resurgence in interest, particularly for gift purchases as the festive season approaches. “We still see a strong demand, especially towards the festive gifting season,” he noted.

The situation remains fluid, with consumers and businesses alike watching closely for potential shifts in gold pricing. As jewelers navigate this turbulent landscape, the balance between craftsmanship, cost, and consumer sentiment will be crucial in the months to come.