On the picturesque Portuguese island of Madeira, a culinary tradition thrives that has captured the palates of locals and visitors alike. Known as espetadas, these skewers of beef are traditionally threaded onto fresh-cut branches of bay and cooked over the embers of a fire. This unique method infuses the meat with the bay’s distinct menthol notes, creating an aromatic and flavorful dish that is both simple and sophisticated.

In a modern twist on this classic, Christopher Kimball’s “Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year” offers a streamlined approach to preparing these beloved skewers. By pulverizing dried bay leaves to create a seasoned salt, and mixing it with garlic and olive oil, the flavors are intensified before the meat is grilled to perfection. This adaptation not only preserves the essence of the traditional dish but also introduces new elements, such as the addition of tomatoes and a Madeira wine reduction, enhancing the overall experience.

The Art of Espetada: A Culinary Tradition

The tradition of cooking espetadas on Madeira dates back centuries, rooted in the island’s rich history and abundant natural resources. The use of bay branches is not merely a culinary choice but a reflection of the island’s landscape, where bay trees are plentiful. The method of cooking over open flames connects to a broader Mediterranean tradition of grilling, emphasizing simplicity and the natural flavors of the ingredients.

According to culinary historian Maria Silva, “The use of bay branches in Madeira’s espetadas is a perfect example of how local resources shape culinary practices. It’s a practice that has been passed down through generations, preserving a unique taste that is synonymous with Madeiran cuisine.”

Modern Adaptations and Culinary Innovations

While the traditional method of preparing espetadas remains popular, modern adaptations like those found in Kimball’s cookbook offer a fresh perspective. By using dried bay leaves, which are more accessible than fresh branches, home cooks can recreate the dish with ease. The addition of a Madeira reduction sauce brings a new dimension to the dish, complementing the beef’s rich flavors with a sweet and savory glaze.

Chef Antonio Ribeiro, a Madeiran native, notes, “These adaptations allow the dish to reach a wider audience, making it possible for people around the world to enjoy a taste of Madeira. The essence remains the same, but the execution is more practical for modern kitchens.”

Recipe Highlights: Bringing Espetada to Your Table

The recipe for these Portuguese-style beef skewers is straightforward yet packed with flavor. Key ingredients include:

  • 10 dried bay leaves, crumbled
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  • 6 medium garlic cloves, finely grated
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • Beef sirloin tips or flat iron steak
  • Cherry tomatoes
  • Madeira wine
  • Salted butter

The preparation involves creating a bay-infused salt, seasoning the beef, and grilling it alongside tomatoes. The Madeira reduction, finished with butter, adds a luxurious touch to the final presentation.

Implications and Culinary Trends

The evolution of espetada reflects broader trends in global cuisine, where traditional dishes are being reimagined to suit contemporary tastes and cooking methods. This approach not only preserves culinary heritage but also encourages innovation and creativity in the kitchen.

As more people seek to explore diverse flavors and cooking techniques, dishes like these Portuguese beef skewers serve as a bridge between cultures, offering a taste of Madeira’s rich culinary history to a global audience. The use of accessible ingredients and simplified methods ensures that this tradition can be enjoyed by anyone, anywhere.

Looking forward, the continued popularity of such dishes may inspire further exploration of regional cuisines, highlighting the importance of preserving culinary traditions while embracing new influences.

For more recipes and culinary insights, visit Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap.